5303R Patek Philippe Minute Repeater Tourbillon

The 5303R is much more than just the only Patek Philippe repeater that Sylvester Stallone hasn’t yet flipped. It is the only Patek Philippe wristwatch with its tourbillon visible dial side. More notably, it was first to have its chiming hammer and gongs dial-side as well. And it is directly linked to Singapore and Southeast Asia. Many are looking at Patek Philippe’s catalogue today and feeling a bit confused: there is a minute repeating Aquanaut and the Calatrava is 42mm. It isn’t the Patek Philippe of old. But the same Patek that made the 2499 lives on in the watches most of us will never get to handle. Thierry Stern does get to handle them though, and famously listens to every repeater which leaves the factory in order to personally tune it.

The first twelve 5303s were launched in Singapore for the Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition, before it then entered the catalogue with a slightly different ref. The basic architecture is from the ref. 3939 and its RTO27PS. And, because of this, it could be argued that this movement doesn’t quite fit the case. This is countered by a canted floral motif which also presents in the case sides, which Patek well tell you is to increase resonance (maybe). I am a bit surprised that motif isn’t on the balance bridge, but that does reference the bat bridge history like the 1945 Competition Tourbillon Philippe Stern wears. All 356 parts are visible from both sides, with openworked hands to compliment the philosophy. For sharing the 3939’s calibre, the two repeaters are polar opposites. The level of attention given to finishing and true handwork is exceptional and something we don’t really see from any brand, even Patek, very often anymore these days. Just ogle that octopus wheel.

This -001 entered the catalogue in 2020 to split reception. The polarization isn’t around the price or even the finishing, but the more daring design elements. This is a long way from enamel and Breguet numerals; Patek Philippe’s historic attitude was that everything on a dial must have a purpose. Ideas can change, and the integration of a black lacquer chapter ring does ground the dial in a way that the competing VC 30030 doesn’t. But this is no 3939. It is objectively one of the most impressive handmade objects in the entire catalogue. Aesthetics are subjective, but this will an impression one way or another. The 5303 serves its function as a halo product with honors in this respect. Most importantly, it sounds glorious. We just have to hope this same level of refinement, attention to detail, and handcraft can be brought down-catalogue again, all the way to the Calatrava.

This is a two year old watch, so not much to note on condition. The RRP was 755K, but because none of us are important enough to be on the list, the market on these hovers over a million. This is the lesser classic option, certainly more daring. But also objectively one of the most impressive handmade objects in the entire catalogue.