UR-210S, ‘Full Metal Jacket’, Steel & Titanium
$122,000
A UR-210S ‘Full Metal Jacket’, the final 210 series Urwerk made in a limited series of 35 examples. This is example number 1 of the series. It features a refined satellite carousel with retrograde minute hand, winding efficiency display, and variable Air Turbine winding system. The UR-210S is the culmination of a decade of rotating-hour satellite carousel evolution, beginning in 2005 in partnership with Harry Winston for the Opus 5 but reaching its crescendo here. In the words of co-founder Martin Frei, ‘In my eyes the UR-210S is our most accomplished creation to date, it is the most pure version of the 210.’
Description
The UR-210S is an early magnum opus from Urwerk, evolving their signature satellite complication with a retrograde minute hand and world-first complication: winding efficiency indication. But the UR-210S, nicknamed 'Full Metal Jacket' with the addition of a bracelet, is something of a favorite child to both Urwerk and their collectors. In the words of co-founder Martin Frei, 'In my eyes the UR-210S is our most accomplished creation to date, it is the most pure version of the 210.' This was a limited edition of 35 examples and this is example number 1, the first made.
Urwerk's satellite system is reinforced in the UR-210 series with the addition of a retrograde minute hand which frames the hours. This hand provides a visual drama at the start of every hour as it jumps back to 1, which it accomplishes in just .1 of a second thanks to a powerful cylindrical marine chronometer 'flyback' spring around the central pivoting column. This is accomplished via a double co-axial star-shaped cam which regulates it. In order for the system to function, the minute hand must be milled from aluminum to a tolerance of within 3 microns.
The UR-210 calibre 7.10 also debuted in 2012 with winding efficiency, a complication focused on the relationship that develops between man and machine. The upper right hand display of this dial is a power reserve like any other, but the upper left hand is something we haven't seen before. This is a running average of winding efficiency over the last two hours. If the watch is consuming more energy than its winding mass is creating, the indication moves toward red. If, by contrast, its wearer is quite active, the indication will move full green. It is a world-first constant calculation between consumed and motion-generated mainspring energy. The UR-210 also encourages its wearer to act in this relationship. The caseback displays an aperture to its Air Turbine winding works, with a selector. 'Full' produces maximal energy, 'reduced' dampens the winding by engaging an Air Turbine compressor mounted on jewels to create resistance, and stop disengages the winding mass completely to create a manual movement and protect it from shock. This is a complication that tells you as much about your own life and activity as it does the state of winding.
These innovations represent a considerable degree of evolution for the satellite carousel. As other co-founder Felix Baumgartner put it, 'I feel with the UR-210 that we have reached the pinnacle of what we can do with this complication.' And that is all before we mention the bracelet, which was added for this final limited edition of the 210 series, the 210S, as a bit of a fittingly elevated send-off. Manufactured at Maspoli SA, it incorporates into its design something of a crown guard, as well as finely chamfered edges that we don't often see in Urwerk. The steel is heavy and deliberately solid, with fine tolerances and quality finishing to all components, particularly the butterfly deployant clasp.
That bracelet is an aesthetic bolster to the 44mm brushed steel case's angular and harsh design, which lands the UR-210S visual impression somewhere between Dune and Blade Runner. Its upper is brushed steel with contrasting frosted reveals, which give the case side a huge sense of dimensionality. Its caseback is hewn from titanium with a squared texture for grip, winding control selector, sapphire Air Turbine display, and an applied individual numbering plaque. The entirety of its case is imposing and sculptural.
Well out of production, this is the Urwerk model which Martin Frei has chosen to wear daily for the last decade. The UR-210S is the culmination of a decade of rotating-hour satellite carousel evolution, beginning in 2005 in partnership with Harry Winston for the Opus 5 but reaching its crescendo here. The UR-210S is the quintessential Urwerk, offering all the Urwerk fundamentals, but elevated. This example, case number 1, is a significant watch for Urwerk's history and their decades-long chapter in satellite carousels, one of the finest independent watchmaking experiments of the century.
This UR-210S presents in exceptional overall condition. The case bear no marks of wear or age, well-preserved. The titanium & sapphire back show no scratches either. There are very light superficial signs of wear on a few links of the bracelet, with no serious or deep marks. It comes with its full set, including full bracelet links, numbered 1 in the limited series of 35.
This example is modeled on a relatively large 7.5" wrist.
- Brand: Urwerk
- Model: UR-210S
- Reference:
- Size: 44
- Year: 2020 (Sold)
- Case Material: Steel & Grade 5 Titanium
- Movement: Variable Automatic Calibre UR-7.10
- Scope: Full Set