Breguet Dial 44920 Movado Celestograf

When watch enthusiasts say vintage Movado, they’re usually picturing an M90 series chronograph. But that’s not even close to where it ends. This Celestrograf is as complicated as vintage Movado gets and it’s about as lovely a complete calendar as has even been created. This is from the mid-40s, 18k gold, and has some of the best lugs ever to grace a case. More though, it has a dial with Breguet numerals. As we all know, Breguet numerals make everything better. It’s like the second cheapest wine, it’s simply always the best choice and never the wrong move.

Following the M90 series chronographs, Movado introduced a complete or ‘triple’ calendar in 1938, the Calendograf. That complication proved so successful that in 1947 Moavdo doubled down and added a moonphase to create this Celestograf (or Astrograf for the American market). The case was carried over from the Calendograf, which was no bad thing. Just look at these lugs. If you didn’t know, Movado the word is Esperanto for ‘always in motion’; these lugs look full of motion standing still. Now, most Celestografs were made by one of the greatest casemakers ever: François Borgel (Taubert & Fils). Most of these you’ll find which are precious are in 14k gold, but this example was for the French market and made in 18k. Likely to avoid gold import tariffs, these cases were made in France.

This is one of those vintage watches that you can’t learn about and not love. The dial is immensely charming, not even to mention the Fab Suisse and French discs. The number of surviving examples and market for these are both tiny. There are no definite numbers, but given the frequency that examples of this quality are presented with (none whatsoever), I’d estimate there are probably fewer than 20 examples with dials of this level of condition circulating between enthusiasts. And yet, it’s not even close to Padellone or Killy values. It’s complication for the people, but those people with a discerning eye for beauty.

This example looks great on the dial side. I haven’t the caseback, lugs look quite full but I’d want to see the back and hallmarks before making any comment on the case finishing state. Either way, the dial is absolutely lovely. There is a light patina and spotting, with all fonts appearing quite original. The bracelet maker is still unknown, but matches perfectly. It comes from a well-regarded French retailer.