3137 Breguet Classique Power Reserve Moonphase, White Gold

Nicolas Hayek always adored Breguet. Throughout his tenure, that respect showed through in a refusal to modernize or cheapen the watchmaking. Breguet under his guidance simply continued with the Roth legacy, and some of those references are worth looking more closely. This is the 3137, a Power Reserve Moonphase that is nearly identical to Chaumet-era Roth’s 3130 (introduced ’83), but with an exhibition caseback and freehand engraved calibre (introduced ’01). It’s worth a second look if you’re Breguet-curious. Particularly in white gold, which was quite a bit less produced than yellow. Because it’s not as complicated as it looks, it’s not as expensive as you might think. But what minimalist complication is present here is of the highest possible watchmaking.

The dial is a clear standout, with three distinct types of guilloché in an execution that even Kari Voutilainen would be proud of. In the old Breguet tradition, each dial made was numbered in series engraved on a plaque in the date subdial at 6. This isn’t even to mention the brushed chapter rings and scales with turned edges. This dial took extreme effort. And that’s great as it’s the soul of this concept. The 3130/3137 were inspired by an AL Breguet pocket watch, No. 5, from 1794. The dial is more than reminiscent, it’s direct wristwatch offspring guided by Roth. You know a harmonious dial when you see one.

The 3137 is one of few references where Hayek-Swatch Breguet outdid Roth Breguet, because the level of attention applied to the caseback matched the dial for the first time here. This is freehand floral engraving, granted no broad anglage or stripes, but damn impressive work nonetheless. The 3137 isn’t trying to be some grand comp. It isn’t trying to be modern. It’s just a Breguet-inspired, then Roth-inspired, Hayek-made gem that’s been largely forgotten about. It simply feels very pure and honest, a result of Hayek’s respect and love for Breguet. Breguet are on a bit of a different path these days. It’s not as much about finely skilled, hand-watchmaking as it is about the appearance of watchmaking. This is a gentle reminder of a better world.

This example appears not polished and in great nick. There are light superficial marks, nothing serious. It comes from a well-regarded Parisian retailer, unknown if box/papers survive with it.