Dubai Edition 79360N Tudor Black Bay Chronograph for Seddiqi

If you’re still of the belief that Tudor is a stepping stone, or for those who simply can’t yet afford a Rolex, you’re living in 1973. This is a Tudor that will cost you two Batgirl GMTs, or four at retail. No, Tudor today fulfill the role that Rolex did decades ago: dependable watches made for professionals at a fair value. They’re not the little brother. They’re the more experimental sibling, less constrained by luxury demands or history. If Rolex were a bit less Swiss, had a few drinks, took the tie off, and undid the neck button so that just a bit too much chest hair was showing, it would wind up as Tudor. And a part of Tudor’s role in picking up the Rolex gauntlet of old is now also the creation of extremely small production runs for organizations with which Wilsdorf & Co is proud to associate.

The creation of any of these specialties has to be approved by the entire Rolex board, not just the association but each designed detail. It’s a nod to you not just from Tudor but the whole coronet if approved, and that’s a big deal. We see a varying range of changes in each edition. Some, like the Ed Sheeran or Rowing Blazers Black Bays, are closer to a signature, replacing the COC lines with branding. Others, like the French Special Force’s ‘COS’ BB58 we have in now just slightly altered the dial, changing the COC lines to the French flag’s colors with a caseback engraving for each operator. But this chronograph was made for Seddiqi & Sons in Dubai, and as watch collectors themselves they took things a bit further.

This is one of the most interesting ‘look closer’ dials Tudor has done yet. When we normally see Eastern Arabic dials, it’s just the hour markers. But this chronograph has the hour markers, subdial divisions, and date wheel all changed. I find the normal Black Bay Chronograph seriously handsome, but trying a bit too hard to be like Paul Newman. This is a young Paul Newman in a throbe and ghutra, and that is precisely as cool as it sounds. This Dubai dial run was made in 50 examples, to celebrate Seddiqi & Son’s 50th. As if that weren’t enough, this particular one is from the President of the UAE. Its guarantee card reads, ‘With compliments of Mohamed Bin Zayed al Nahyan’ in an small envelope with the UAE coat of arms. Yes, it’s twice the cost of Batgirl in the market today. But it’s at least 100X as interesting, at least to me. One day, inshallah. For now, long live Tudor’s adherence to purpose over sheer luxury, with a healthy appetite for risk and creativity. Even if it is a Breitling at heart.

This example is in exceptional condition, as you’d expect of a watch that is not even a year old. The value of this watch is still being established in the market, only four have come up for sale to my knowledge. Of the examples listed, it’s right in the middle but also has provenance few can match with the President’s signature on the paperwork. A value? That’d be a stretch. An opportunity? Definitely. It comes from a well-regarded Dutch retailer.