Value Proposition: 145.8.31 Jaeger Lecoultre Master Control

145.8.31-Jaeger-Lecoultre-Master-Control

Blancpain once ran an ad campaign stating ‘Blancpain has never made a quartz watch and never will.’ That’s convenient, as the house had gone bankrupt well ahead of the quartz crisis and Biver only restarted production once mechanical watchmaking was trending back to strength. Jaeger Lecoultre, on the other hand, had some confused years. However,…

Read More

Value Proposition: 7996 Tudor Oysterdate Ranger

7996-Tudor-Ranger-Oysterdate

A ‘first’ in anything remotely tied to Wilsdorf, whether coronet or rose, tends to attract attention and huge premiums. However, there are exceptions to every rule. With enough niche subcategorizations, anything can be said to be unique; that’s not what I’m arguing here. What I am arguing, with a little alochol-induced scholarship, is that I…

Read More

Value Proposition: SBGX341 Grand Seiko Anti-Magnetic Quartz

SBGX341-Grand-Seiko-Anti-Magnetic-Quartz

To many of you, I know, this will be sacrilege; a site literally called The Hairspring featuring something with as many mechanical components as a Playstation 5. This is the Ferrari SUV; a distinctly upmarket brand engaging with something many would consider well beneath them aspirationally. For the militant-anti-quartz among us; hear me out. An…

Read More

Value Proposition: 3536 IWC Aquatimer 2000 in Steel

3536-IWC-Aquatimer-2000-GST

Last week, I gave a discourse on my appreciation for IWC’s water-resistant offerings in featuring an early Yacht Club. In that text, I linked to some of the less recognized dive offerings from their back catalogue. Now, in my immense power as technocrat here, I can tell what readers click on. More of you clicked…

Read More

Value Proposition: Seiko Lord Marvel ‘Special Dial’

Seiko-Lord-Marvel-Special-Carved-Logo

Seiko’s back catalogue offers an almost bewildering array of models, variants, and even manufactures. Blurred family lines between Grand Seiko, Orient, Prospex, 5, now-defunct Lordmatic, and even Credor offer little clarification to the nascent watch collector. To be blunt, the work one has to put in to understand Seiko’s diverse set of offerings is worth…

Read More

Value Proposition: 222101/1 Universal Genève Compax

222101/1-Universal-Genève-Compax

The humble three-register chronograph: executed by many, yet perfected by few. I am not claiming that the 222101 is a perfect watch, within Universal that’s probably something we call Nina. Outside of Universal, we call it Daytona or Speedmaster. However, I am saying that outside of this triumvirate, it is one of the best ever…

Read More

Value Proposition: 2914-3 ‘First’ Omega Railmaster

First-Omega-Railmaster-2914-3

There aren’t many truly underrated references in Omega’s back catalogue anymore. Every collector knows and loves the early Seamasters, Ultraman 145.012s, Mad Men Constellations, hell even Schumacher’s Daytona is on the rise these days. However, amongst the dazzling base 1000 bezeled 2915 Speedmasters and tantalizingly-lollipopped 2913 Seamaster 300s, it’s easy to overlook the more reserved…

Read More

No Reserve eBay Find: 216570 ‘Floating-Hand’ Explorer II

Rolex-Explorer-II-GMT-216570-Black-Floating-Hands

I have said for some time that I aim to feature rare, interesting, or undervalued watches here. This beautiful 216570 definitively falls into the latter category. I don’t tend to feature a huge amount of modern Rolex here, they tend to sell themselves. I also shy away from all the AD . . .stuff. Nonetheless,…

Read More

Under-Market-Value Audemars Piguet Quantieme Perpetual 5548

Audemars-Piguet-5548-Quantieme-Perpetual

I understand, tagging a 5548 as a value proposition is a bit absurd but hear me out. Any watch, regardless of price level, has the potential to become a value if listed below the market. That’s precisely what we have here. And the watch in question is an appreciating fan favorite of the dedicated modern…

Read More

Omega Seamaster 145.008 Chronostop Regatta

Omega-Seamaster-145.008-Chronostop-Regatta

Overlooked Omega is not only an alliteration, it is a strikingly diverse and intriguing landscape. I am guilty of not yet having a deep knowledge of Omega’s observatory chronometers, the Ploprof story, or just where Armstrong’s 321 rests. Despite these sins, I am still a massive fanboy for all things vintage Omega. One of the…

Read More