Tiffany 16800 Rolex Submariner

Tiffany is not complicated. It’s a brand. It sells stuff. So why does everyone behave as if anything bearing the holy stamp is the second coming? I’ll tell you why, it’s personal. Collectors look for any excuse to stand out. It could be patina, a stamp such as this, hell even a total flaw. In…

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94110 Tudor ‘Snowflake’ Submariner

It’s often said that the 5513 is the prototypical dive watch. It’s a panacea, sitting on top of modern dive watch genealogy like Gengis Khan in Mongolia. But what I find very interesting about that time in watch design is that it didn’t have to be that way. People tried other things. Gruen went with…

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Hybrid Royal Canadian Navy 94010 Tudor Submariner

For many years, Tudor hardcores had been noting Snowflake Subs with an odd combination of round hour markers, snowflake hands, and shield dials. They all seemed to emanate from Canada and often retired Royal Canadian Navy personnel. Scholars had known for many years that there were Tudor Submariners issued to the RCN, from the early…

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Tropical Gilt PCG 7928 Tudor Submariner

Of all the many adjectives one could throw at this 7928 including tropical, ghost, gilt, and PCG, I believe the most interesting may be antifragile. That word has more depth than the etymology alone may suggest. Nassim Taleb, a Lebanese author and risk analyst, has a book on the topic. In it, he defines antifragile…

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‘Cosmic’ Dial 16610 Rolex Submariner

Cosmic-Dial-16610-Rolex-Submariner

It somehow feels wrong to describe a Rolex as neo-vintage, and yet here we are. Everything about the 16610 is neo. I tend to over-index on four and early five digit Rolex, purely as much of modern Rolex lacks the romance I so desire in a steel tool watch. However, the 16610 still held on…

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Meters First, Tropical Mk2 1680 Rolex Red Submariner

Tropical-1680-Rolex-Red-Submariner

One of the many appeals in vintage Rolex collecting is the vastly different character that the same reference can have, simply as a result of having led different lives. Not all patina is equal. Everyone knows what a red Submariner is. But I’ll be damned if anyone knew it could look this good. This is…

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Meters First 1680/8 Rolex Submariner

Meters-First-16808-Rolex-Submariner-Gold

Rolex’s fabled gold Submariner may in fact be the single watch most classically representative of the ‘fuck-you-money’ attitude. Or at least, it was. See, the gold Submariner has gone through this sort of inverse bell-curve of public acceptability from the 1960s through today in 2021. To start, it was a hallmark of a highly successful…

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7016/0 Tudor Submariner

7016-Tudor-Submariner

No-nonsense divers don’t come much more attractive than early Tudor Submariners. The 7016, released in 1968, was quite notable as it marked the first time Tudor utilized an ETA movement as opposed to the Fleurier of the 7928 it succeeded. The 7016 reference also covered the first ever-snowflake handsets, though earlier examples such as these…

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‘Panama Canal’ 16610 Rolex Submariner

Panama-Canal-Rolex-Submariner-16610

It’s often said that modern Rolex do not produce limited run dial signatures. This is mostly true, those efforts get diverted through Tudor more often than not these days. However, the era where Rolex would allow a foreign entity to sign 6 ended later than you may think. To commemorate the transfer of the Panama…

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76100 ‘Snowcone’ Tudor Submariner

76100-Tudor-Snowcone-Submariner

Neo-vintage is not just collectable in Patek, VC, or AP; the era has more practical offerings as well. One, largely unsung, is the transitional 76100 Tudor sub. The reference was in production for just a few years in the mid-to-late 80s, but the 94110 ‘Snowflake’ of the same period stole majority limelight. That’s just a…

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