Salmon Dial 42040 Vacheron Constantin Overseas


There are few greater value opportunities than the current market for first generation Overseas, pretty much all variants, but salmon dials in particular. A direct descendant of the 222, this was the intermediary step between 222 and the calatrava cross-inspired case that many know today. The first generation is not only more classic in 37mm…

Read More

’13 Rue de la Paix’ Salmon Dial Cartier Tortue Monopoussoir


The Tortue Monopoussoir is easily one of the most desirable collected Cartiers of the CPCP years, with some of the greatest modern names contributing to its THA-ébauche calibre before it was cool to do your own thing. A young FP Journe, Denis Flageollet (now De Bethune), and Vianney Halter all had a hand in constructing…

Read More

Salmon Dial 14790ST Audemars Piguet Royal Oak


At this late stage, the Royal Oak is effectively its own brand. Just don’t ask AP and it all makes sense. In their long and varied run, Royal Oaks have inflated, deflated, grown pushers, gone complicated, ceramic, quartz, and even been desecrated by Spiderman. Like any brand, not all its offerings are created equal; I’m…

Read More

Salmon Dial 5035 Patek Philippe Annual Calendar

This may come as a surprise, but Patek’s annual calendar calibres actually requires a greater number of components than their perpetuals: 324 for the annual base calibre vs 280 for the perpetual. This 5035, the world’s first annual calendar complication, was intended to help bridge the gap between a Calatrava and full-on perpetual calendar. At…

Read More

1 of 200 Salmon Guilloché Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Art Deco


In all its ninety years in widely varying production, it’s easy to overlook a great Reverso reference. This grail-to-me, the Art Deco, has largely faded into the background of watch collecting attention. Or perhaps, having pre-dated Instagram as a limited edition in production from 1992 to 2002, it was never there in the first place. As…

Read More

Salmon Dial 247.X.10 Daniel Roth Chronograph


Of all watchmakers who were there at the very start of the independent movement, Daniel Roth may be the least understood and appreciated (relatively to his immense accomplishments). Having paved the way for an entire category, I can think of no early independent whose work is more deserving of increased attention. This is perhaps in…

Read More

Salmon Vacheron Constantin 42052 Overseas

The appeal of neo-vintage, to my sensibilities, is self-explanatory. Mechanics are modern enough to not give concern and yet the design is something entirely apart from both modern and properly vintage pieces. Tritium was still in use. Proportions were still slight back then. Not all things from 90s and early 2000s have aged extremely well.…

Read More