Salmon Dial 14790ST Audemars Piguet Royal Oak


At this late stage, the Royal Oak is effectively its own brand. Just don’t ask AP and it all makes sense. In their long and varied run, Royal Oaks have inflated, deflated, grown pushers, gone complicated, ceramic, quartz, and even been desecrated by Spiderman. Like any brand, not all its offerings are created equal; I’m…

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Salmon Dial 5035 Patek Philippe Annual Calendar

This may come as a surprise, but Patek’s annual calendar calibres actually requires a greater number of components than their perpetuals: 324 for the annual base calibre vs 280 for the perpetual. This 5035, the world’s first annual calendar complication, was intended to help bridge the gap between a Calatrava and full-on perpetual calendar. At…

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Salmon Dial 42040 Vacheron Constantin Overseas

Remember that ad from the 1980s that went, ‘Since 1735, there has never been a quartz Blancpain watch. And there never will be.’ I feel like Vacheron Constantin could credibly run an ad campaign likewise stating, ‘Since 1755, there has never been a bad Vacheron Constantin. And there never will be.’ Now at this point, I’m…

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1 of 200 Salmon Guilloché Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Art Deco


In all its ninety years in widely varying production, it’s easy to overlook a great Reverso reference. This grail-to-me, the Art Deco, has largely faded into the background of watch collecting attention. Or perhaps, having pre-dated Instagram as a limited edition in production from 1992 to 2002, it was never there in the first place. As…

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Salmon Dial 247.X.10 Daniel Roth Chronograph


Of all watchmakers who were there at the very start of the independent movement, Daniel Roth may be the least understood and appreciated (relatively to his immense accomplishments). Having paved the way for an entire category, I can think of no early independent whose work is more deserving of increased attention. This is perhaps in…

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Salmon Vacheron Constantin 42052 Overseas

The appeal of neo-vintage, to my sensibilities, is self-explanatory. Mechanics are modern enough to not give concern and yet the design is something entirely apart from both modern and properly vintage pieces. Tritium was still in use. Proportions were still slight back then. Not all things from 90s and early 2000s have aged extremely well.…

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Salmon Laine Gelidus Guilloché


After a decade of attentive watch interest, it’s hard to get excited about the lion’s share of modern releases. Torsti Laine is a Finnish watchmaker, trained under Lange and Voutilainen. There is a level of intention behind his work that shines through in in the details. Many can take a Unitas calibre and off-the shelf…

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Value Proposition: Habring² Chrono-Felix Salmon Monopusher


Independent manufacturers don’t come much more independent than a single Austrian husband and wife duo. Richard Habring was trained in the 1980s through Karlstein an der Thaya and was something of a prodigy, presenting a self-designed minute tourbillon in an incline movement by graduation. After meeting Maria and jointly deciding fully on a horological career,…

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