Creating an icon is no easy task. AP, Patek, and Vacheron succeeded in this some 40 years ago. This holy trinity (a term created by AP, Patek, and Vacheron to describe the Royal Oak, Nautilus, and 222/Overseas) saw a rise to fame in the years after their introduction. All three remain icons today. Integrated bracelets are ‘in’ right now. It seems every watchmaker and their dog has a sports model. However, three models are truly responsible for kicking off this recent fascination. They are, in my estimation, the contemporary holy trinity. They are the Bulgari OF shown here, Moser Streamliner, and Czapek’s Antarctique. Bulgari, with its LVMH financial backing, can take the most responsibility. They also took the boldest approach. What we have here is not merely an innovative watch, it’s a future icon.
The design was bold, to say the least. The OF case has a circle, hexagon, octagon, and dodecahedron all synthesized into one bizarrely masculine yet slim proportion. But that’s not even the most impressive aspect. In my mind, a sports watch is defined by well the bracelet is integrated into the case design and the extent to which the bracelet echos the surfacing of the case. Check and check here. The thin titanium bracelet is a recurring tapered U with recessed and faceted surfaces. Nobody liked the Octo at its outset. Many claim to, but few actually spoke by buying one. Just seven years after its release, it seems the community has started to appreciate the brilliance and uniqueness on offer in the OF.
Moreover, the innovation is in more than design. The caliber 138 broke new ground. It used individual bridges that removed the need for top plates. The balance sits directly in line with the gear train as opposed to over it. That architecture allows for a more robust and thinner movement than ever previously devised. Moreover, it maintains a 60 hour reserve at 21600 vph. It may not be the world’s thinnest movement. But it is, in my estimation, the world’s thinnest actually usable movement. The Piaget record holders actually bend when properly affixed to a wrist. This watch is as robust as it looks and the movement is as futuristic as the design purports.
The example on offer here is the one I would go for, the original first iteration in titanium. The material is not for everyone, but I think it compliments the design here. The addition of lightness and strength titanium offers speaks to what this watch sought to accomplish in the first place. The case is very strong with no marks I can observe. It’s a full set. The watch even has a service history. And with the secondary market, you won’t have to take the hit of initial depreciation, which can be steep. There’s nothing not to like.
Find this Octo Finissimo here from Special Dial for 9265 USD.