I recently learned that there is a form of sweetener called invert sugar which is a synthesized blend of pure glucose and fructose. Our nervous systems interpret this as even sweeter than regular sugar, gram per gram. Do I even have to make the analogy? Kari Voutilainen’s 28PI inverts the movement to place its bridge, balance, and gear train all in view the time on its face. This is not an easy task of mechanical design. I would never call any of Kari’s more traditional pieces boring; they are anything but. However, like the glucose-fructose hybrid, I find this more technical showcase just that little bit sweeter—wrist candy, if you will.
Kari Voutilainen is a classically trained independent watchmaker in the prime of his ability. Past accolades include graduating from the Finnish School of Watchmaking, working with Parmigiani, and being showered with GPHG’s most prestigious awards many years running. Critically acclaimed independents don’t come more lauded: this is thee highest tier.
The 28 utilizes Kari’s Vingt-8 time-only movement as a base and flips it on its head. The entire chain of mechanics is displayed proudly next to the time. That system includes a Phillips overcoil, Grossman interior curve, and a direct double impulse escapement. That’s not even to mention the clinically-insane levels of hand finishing. On its display rear one can find the mechanics usually shrouded by a dial, in addition to an open-worked petite seconds and power reserve. The entire mechanism is encased in a 39mm platinum case with Kari’s signature lug style. The 28 was available in platinum, tantalum, and titanium. This platinum case is one of just 10.
This example appears to have never or hardly seen wear. I see no marks at all across its highly polished platinum surfaces. It comes with its original box and certificate from a Voutilainen-approved re-seller: everything you’d hope for and more. The watch also comes with a two-year warranty from ACM, though I think at this point we trust Kari to build pieces that last multiple eternities.
Find this 28PI here from A Collected Man for 105000 GBP.