Insanely technical independent De Bethune are perhaps best known for their use (or misuse) of the pun Starry Varius or insane lug designs. The manufacture is an involved one, one of the few independents that manufacture everything from the hairspring to the handset vertically. Outside of heat blued titanium, they are not closely associated with any color. However, this recent dial released during Dubai Watch Week is starting to make think they should be, because, well . . .look at it. Rolex writes ‘superlative chronometer’ on every damn one of their dials and, technically, they are. But the DB25 Perpetual, particularly in this hue, is just superlative watch full stop.
The DB25 series was intended to be a more traditional counterpart to De Bethune’s DB28 series madness. Mind you, we’re talking traditional by De Bethune standards here and all things are relative. When the brand set out to built a new, all-house perpetual calibre, the put it in that understated 25-series case. The result is a sort of contrast of traditional guilloché, roman numerals, and feuille handset against the ultra modern calibre DB2324 beating inside at 28800 vph. That’s right, this is a high(er) beat perpetual calendar with 120 hour reserve, comprised of 425 components and 47 jewels. Complete with a white gold and titanium rotor to match the titanium 44mm case. The finishing is on par with the very heights of independent manufactures. And in green? Just yes, please.
This example appears perfect to my eye. The titanium case, grade 5, is not scratched anywhere. Not even surface wear. It comes form a small East coast retailer, no mention of box or papers.
Find this DB25QP here from Esper Luxe listed as POA.