Cartier CPCP 1575 Santos Dumont

A bastion of utility with elegant design in the modern era, the Santos Dumont is what a pilot’s watch looks like when dressed to the nines. The ‘Dumont’ here is important, a deliberate naming choice made by Cartier to reference the full name of Louis Cartier’s pilot friend who, in 1904, needed a wristwatch instead of a pocket watch. Where the Santos has an integrated bracelet and larger case these days, the Santos Dumont harks back to that original design more closely. When seen through the lens of Cartier’s CPCP years, it is quite the design to behold.

This CPCP ref. 1575 is perhaps the most collected iteration of the Santos Dumont, cased in platinum at 36x27mm. The design of this case is quite unlike a Galbée or Carrée, or anything more modern. The bezel is thin, giving a larger real estate for thatfull rosette guilloché dial.The exposed screws set against its polished bezel are detail carried throughout generations, meant to echo the construction of the Eiffel tower. But it’s not just the bezel proportion, this is one of the thinnest Cartier watch cases of all time, just 4.5mm tall including the crystal.This, thanks to a manual Frédéric Piguet calibre 021MC, based on the 21. At the time, it was the thinnest watch movement on the market and boasted a 42 hour reserve, no less.

As the Cartier market has soared in recent years, CPCP and all, this Santos Dumont has become something of a collector’s darling. There is watchmaking craft, a technically advanced movement, precious metal, and immense history. If you’re a skeptic, bribe anyone you can think of in order to try one on. In my experience, a moment on wrist is enough to convert even the most cynical. This case is magic. As is the rest. I suspect only increasing demand for the CPCP Santos Dumont, though who am I to speculate publicly. Certainly, I wouldn’t mind one.

This example has a razor sharp case with moderate superficial surface wear. This is not a safe queen but so much more attractive to my eye for it. It was recently serviced by Cartier. It comes with its original strap, white gold clasp, and full set with CPCP paperwork from a well-regarded Japanese retailer.

Find this CPCP Santos Dumont here from Special Dial listed as POA.