In 1970, the Chaumet brothers were hired to bring Breguet back to their former glory. One of the longest running and most historically significant manufactures of all time (ever heard of the Breguet hairspring or overcoil?), Breguet was to be made the high-end name in Switzerland once again by new investment. The brothers hired a young Daniel Roth as master watchmaker to oversee their effort. Roth and François Bodet (brand director) worked with the brothers to create a series of incredible, truly high-end pieces which have been overlooked for some time.
The 3237 is amongst Roth’s best ever work, period. The base may be a two-register 2310 chronograph, but it is elevated to an art form through classic touches such as an engine-turned dial made of solid gold, straight lugs, fluted-edge 36mm case, and roman numerals. It is very much of Patek 5070 DNA, but viewed through the lens of more traditional finishing. All were sold within the first couple years of the brand’s reform. Production was not limited but there are not many of these about. Each was numbered in series (a traditional Breguet thing) at 6 on the dial.
That approach shines through in the back as well, where the venerable Lemania 2310 is finely finished entirely by hand. All angles are chamfered to an extreme level, Geneva striping is applied where appropriate, and screw heads have been brought to a mirror polish. Interestingly, while Patek’s 5070 also shares the same 2310 ébauche, Breguet actually owned Lemania in the period the 3237 was created. The case could be made that this watch is actually a more vertically cohesive package, though that really shouldn’t matter to any enthusiast in my opinion. If you are not convinced or in love at a glance, this is not the watch for you.
This watch is gently worn, with even and consistent surface wear on the case. No major dents anywhere visible. The dial is incredibly perfect, no printed degradation and no luminous material to worry about. The back is equally umarred. It comes on an original-looking strap, no mention of box or papers, from a well-regarded retailer.
Find this 3237 here from Dunaliga for 24480 USD.