The Tank Cintreé has been around since 1921, very shortly after the first 1919 Tank. It was adopted by British soldiers in the Boer War for its relatively masculine proportion and the fact that it wasn’t a pocket watch. Post war, those same credentials propelled it to be the ultimate aesthetic pairing for timeless style; it was adopted by Fred Astaire, Steve McQueen and Ralph Lauren. After a near-decade absence, Cartier reintroduced the Cintrée to the catalogue in 2018 at SIHH. It was available in pink gold, yellow gold, and this platinum. Only the platinum case, Cartier’s metal of choice, was limited—with total production capped at just 100 pieces.
If you didn’t know, Cintrée translates literally as curve. The Cintrée case is marginally longer and slimmer (7.2mm rise) than the Américaine case at 46.3x23mm. But the design of this watch is all about that graceful elongated vertical Curve, blending perfectly with ellipsed radius of an upper wrist. For the limited platinum pieces, the dial was made to match the platinum’s grey tone with soft grey indices, numerals, and railroad track minutes. Effortlessly classic, but modernized in tone. The only piercing vibrancy to see emanates from the ruby cabochon, a striking scarlet tone.
The movement is based on JLC’s 846, which goes here by Cartier calibre 8971 MC. It is a manual, thin, rhodium plated, and relatively uncomplicated calibre. It offers a reserve of just 36 hours, somewhat interestingly just like the original artifact from the 1920s. This is deliberate; the Cintrée is a watch intended to be worn and wound every day, upon waking; a watch that demands interaction. Cartier may be all about design, but they have not lost the view to romance either.
This example has very light signs of wear on case and that really is it. No bashes, a clean crystal, full set. It comes on its original grey alligator strap from a well-regarded retailer.
Find this Tank Cintrée here from Mr Watchley for 39850 EUR.