A Gorgeous Gilt 5513 Submariner

It’s hard to objectively quantify why we like old watches. I trip over my own words writing here all the time in attempts to justify this insane fixation. However, I would assert that if I showed this 5513 and a modern 124060 to the everyman on the street side-by-side, they would understand. This classic gilt dial has maximal charm. This rare intact early 5513 came on my radar yesterday and I simply had to feature it.

The Submariner can trace its lineage back through the 5508, 6538, and even turn-o-graph. But I would argue that the 5513 is where the true DNA of the modern Submariner began. A stout case with screw-down crown, sharp crown guards, rotating diver’s bezel, and the iconic dial arrangement. This is recognizable instantly to anyone as a submariner even today, whereas a 6536 might only be known by those of us who identify as watch addicts. It still retains the gorgeous plexi crystal and gilt dial we all love, but with a relatively modern design, a sweet spot. It’s the most iconic diver from the ultimate era of dive watches.

This example is lovely. Particularly its dial, which is in a condition very rarely seen. This one has spidered slightly as they do. A small hand drag from previous service in the only detraction. Most importantly, the indices have retained their shape and aged beautifully. The long 5 insert is correct. The case, sadly, isn’t quite as perfect. There’s polishing for certain. That’s not ideal, but it’s not horrible. Its case back is unoriginal and a replacement from a 5512. However, these detractions are considered in the ask when compared to most comparable 5513s currently for sale.

Find this Gilt 5513 here from Angel City Time on offer at 18950 USD.