Archive for April 2021
Genesis of Modern Zenith: the A386
Very little stirs the ‘purchase now’ instinct in me like the A386 El Primero these days. The monumentally innovative reference appeals to all my senses. Its design is attractive, the contrasted big-eye subs uniquely lovely. The automatic cal 3019 is as gorgeous as it was groundbreaking. It’s also a complete sleeper to the general population.…
Read MoreGirard Perregaux 5368 Triple Calendar
Girard Perregaux may not have the street cred of the holy trinity, but they should. GP were around and making beautiful metal in period with the big three. In my experience, amongst those who really know watches, there is universal respect for GP. Though today probably best known for the Laureato, there are myriad other…
Read MoreA 1940s Gallet Field Watch
Racine was the historic US label for Gallet watches. Although probably best known for the ‘Flying Officer’ chronograph, Gallet’s illustrious history runs all the way back to 1826. In 1877 a relative of the Gallet family relocated from Switzerland to the US and the Racine line was born. This is not unlike Wakmann for Breitling…
Read More1 of 50 Early Franck Muller Steel Chronograph
This classic chronograph was among the first pieces released by Franck Muller after stepping out in 1991 to create his own house. Mr. Muller grew up in Switzerland and went to become a watchmaker at just fifteen. After working at an auction house, he became one of the world’s preeminent watch restorers. He oversaw Patek…
Read MoreA Near-Perfect Zenith A. Cairelli CP-2
For those who adore the utilitarian military aesthetic of the classic pilot’s chronograph, this your watch. Moreover, theres a flash of that classic 1960s Italian style that knows no bounds. I can’t quite say why, but this watch puts me in mind of all the classic icons: the Vespa, Alfa’s original Disco Volante, and Lake…
Read MoreThe Actual Casino Royale Seamaster 300: 2220.80
I have nothing against the recent No Time to Die Seamaster releases. But, equally, I don’t admire them. Particularly the flagship titanium job. I can’t help feeling that the fauxtina, shark mesh, and fake broad arrow feel more like a marketing exercise than anything Bond of old would sport. I’m not under any false pretense,…
Read MoreA Perfect Early Jaeger Lecoultre Memovox
Although I struggle to articulate why, the one vintage watch which tugged at my heartstrings most over 2020 was the original Memovox. You may have taken note, I have a fascination with mechanical alarms. But the Memovox is so much more. Although this two-finish silver dial may not be quite as rare as the lapis…
Read MoreGrand Seiko SBGA029 Spring Drive Diver
Today we have the one diver often discussed, but not often seen. The early GS diver is an engineering feat with a style all its own. If you ever get the opportunity to compare this GS to a sub or SM300, you’ll be left wondering exactly how the competitors can justify charging equivalent sums with…
Read More1 of 100 Montblanc Villeret Monopusher 1858
Navy on steel may be a bit cliché in the moment. However, Montblanc preceeded this trend. A there’s no doubt they nailed the aesthetic. Their design echoes early Minerva pilots from after WWI, with modern touches and proportion. For the 1858 collection, Montblanc also redesigned their logo to a less cursive, nowhere-else-seen sans serif mountain…
Read MoreA Perfect 2913 Omega Seamaster 300
Finding any of the original Omega trilogy in decent condition is a tall order these days. Second only the 2915 in terms of difficult is this beauty, the 2913 Seamaster 300. While the Submariner is arguably more recognizable, this original Seamaster is no less important or attractive. Although the reference may seem approachable enough, it’s…
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